Here goes nothing:

Engine modifications:

Base: Honda B18A1
-Stock block, honed by ENDYN
-Darton sleeves bored to 84mm by ENDYN
-Stock crankshaft micropolished, balanced, and knife-edged (stock stroke to retain high rod/stroke ratio)
-Eagle H-Beam rods, stock length
-ENDYN Rollerwave pistons, rings, and pins, 84mm bore
-ACL rod, main and thrust bearings
-ENDYN lower block girdle
-ARP rod and main bolts
-ARP head studs
-New GSR water pump
-New GSR oil pump
-New GSR Timing belt and alternator belt
-PS and AC deleted
-Cometic two layer head gasket
-Oil sandwich plate and fittings from Golden Eagle
-22" prefabbed oil line from Golden eagle
-VTEC dowel pins from Golden Eagle
-New B18A1 oil pan modified to clear lower block girdle
-New rear main seals

Cylinder head modifications:

Base: ENDYN B-series VTEC head, complete
-Flat, GSR style quench pads
-33.5mm flat faced intake valves
-28.5 flat faced exhaust valves
-Dual wound valve springs rated to 10K rpm
-Titanium retainers
-"BumpStix" cam shafts (IN: .481" @ 268deg, EX: .458" @ 264deg)
-New Honda spool valve (VTEC solenoid)
-New GSR valve cover painted flat black and gasket
-New Honda exhaust cam plug

Transmission modifications:

Base: Honda Y80 (USDM GSR)
-Carbon coated synchros
-Quaife Active Torque Biasing differential
-1st: 3.230
-2nd: 1.900
-3rd: 1.360
-4th: 1.034
-5th: 0.787
-Reverse: 3.000
-Final Drive: 4.400
-Fidanza 9# flywheel
-Clutchmasters Stage3 clutch
-Skunk2 Short shifter and weighted knob

Induction:
-Hayward Performance Individual Throttle Bodies for ITR/B16 head
-51mm taper throttles
-Hondata Heatshield Gasket just to increase the runner length by another 2.5mm
-ITB socks for street, open air for race

Exhaust:
-Hy-Tech tri-y big tube header
-2.5" collector
-2.5" custom aluminum exhaust piping built by me
-2.5" Skunk2 test pipe for daily
-2.5" Carsound high flow cat for inspection only
-22" Magnaflow resonator
-2.5" inlet 3" outlet muffler brand undecided

Ignition:
-MSD Honda Distributor
-MSD super low resistance plug wires, 8.5mm
-MSD Inductive Blaster Coil

Fuel delivery:
-255lph Walbro fuel pump
-Custom 5/16" Stainless steel fuel lines
-Braided SS flexible fuel lines
-AEM fuel Pressure Regulator
-Skunk2 composite fuel rail
-RC 440cc/min Injectors
-Stock fuel tank
-100LL (100 octane, low lead) aviation gasoline

Engine Management:
-Hondata s300, professionally dyno tuned

Suspension:
-Koni SP3 dampers
-Ground Control 7K front 9K rear springs
-Custom 6pt roll cage
-Password JDM 3pt front strut tower bar, 4pt rear trunk brace, b-pillar and c-pillar bars
-Skunk2 upper and lower arms (front, minus lower control arms for rear) with adjustable toe camber and caster
-Honda tie rods and ends
-MFactory Lower ball joints
-Energy Suspension Master Bushing set (includes all bushings for the whole car)
-ASR subframe brace and Integra Type-R 19mm rear sway bar
-Type R 22mm front sway bar

Body modifications:

Base: 1994 Acura Integra LS
-Flat black Rustoleum paint
-Sunroof removed and covered with an aluminum sheet, .063" 2024-T3 ball rolled for torsional ridgidity, sealed off with RTV.
-VIS carbon fiber hood and trunk lid painted flat black (I don't like the ricey look of bare CF)
-Custom front lip splitter made from plywood as the original casting piece then plaster molded as a cast, ultimately made from polyurethane
-Striped interior except for the dash and center console
-Recaro seats, driver and passenger
-Takata 5pt harnesses
-New front windshield, you should see the grooves on it...
-Rear wiper delete
-Antenna delete

Wheels and tires:
-Rota Slipstream 15x7 +42mm offset in flat black
-Falken Azenis in 215/50/15

Ultimately, my goal is 250hp to the wheels with somewhere nearing 180lb/ft tq, but I'd be happy with 230hp... I want the car to weigh 2100lbs wet with me in the drivers seat. I'll need to put Klaudia through some serious weight loss programs.

Any insight anyone might have is welcome. Ask any and all questions.

2100lbs wet and driver, that's going to be tough IMO, I mean doesn't that mean you're going to be shaving like 700lbs off the car?

Yeah the 2100lbs is a little hopeful, but I think I can get her down to 2300lbs. The car weighs 2560lbs wet with no driver, and I on;y weigh 125lbs, so I'm looking at a 2685lb car to start with.

CF hood and trunk lid will shave like 100-150lbs right off the bat.
Flywheel is 8.1lbs lighter than stock which translates into some ridiculous decrease in rotational inertia.
Seats are 10lbs and harnesses are 3lbs, that's a 32lb savings between both seats and belts.
I'll be ripping out the sunroof and fabbing up a piece of 2024-T3 aluminum sheet metal .063" thick fastened with countersunk Monel rivets. That's another 10lbs or more.

It's going to take a lot, but I think I can shave 350lbs from the bitch. Mainly it'll be the little stuff that will add up.

sounds like a beast, but i can't see throwing that much into a integra... especially a non-GSR...

Well the LS weighs 40lbs less than the GSR...i guess that's a start right?

Actually, I prefer the B18B1 crank to the B18C1 crank because it has a 2mm longer stroke allowing for more low end torque. Thus making the LS/VTEC hybrid/frankenstein a very popular and necessary modification in order to get an LS up to speed with the mildly built GSRs and Type-Rs.

Not only that, but I don't have the funds to buy a GSR, and this car was essentially given to us. It was worth $3000 and we paid $2000 as a family friend deal thing.

When I throw the LSVTEC together we should race...

it wouldn't even be a race, the only perf mod i have right now is a CAI. it'd be an almost bone stock car versus a fully built car with everything from an all new suspension to a custom built motor to racing buckets. how much is all that gonna cost?

Actually I won't be able to build the whole car for a year or so. Just lego building for a while. All I'm going to do first is the LSVTEC which means I need to get a better job and start saving some green.

the built head alone costs around $900. Then I have to get the sandwich plate, oil passage plug, VTEC solenoid, and 22" oil line.

I'm looking at $1500 or more just to get the head. I have to get a new intake manifold so there's another $200ish for an AEBS IM.

yea 350lbs shaved off is realistic, but trying to get another 350lbs after that is where it becomes really tough.

Yeah it'll take a lot of time and effort to get there.

The ABS system and the tubing involved will be another 15lbs.

The rear seat and interior panels will be another 35lbs.

Only another 300lbs to cut...

No matter what, a 250hp 2500lbs car will be an exhilarating drive to say the least.

You'd save a lot of money by doing an engine swap instead of building the B18. Throw a K20 in there :-D

usually it's the other way around. Unless there is a cheap swap kit. K20s aren't cheap, could go with a K24 and maybe find a nice head to throw on it. But I bet a K20 will run $3K for the motor alone. Usually the cheapest way to go is to just do a turbo build, but most people give more respect to a N/A build.

What about an H22?

H22 is easier to make power with, not sure the cost now, I usually just hear the debate of how heavy the motor is compared to a B18 vs the more tq and power you can make out of them. It's an easier swap than the K20, much easier, I know in some instances the hoods on K20 swaps had to be cut open. But I hear building up a NA H22 is more expensive then building up a B series block, probably due to how many B series blocks are out there.

Well the H22 has a lot more power factory than the B18, but I want the challenge of building a B18B1 up to the 250hp mark. It would be too easy to make 250hp with an H22.

Same thing with a K20.

There are swap kits for both engines.

H22 gets the H2B kit which mates the H22 block to the B series transmission. This is less expensive to build to 250hp in the long run than a B18B1. The H22 isn't a whole lot heavier than the B18. Only by about 75lbs.

Building a K series is a lot more expensive considering you have to buy the engine which tends to be really expensive in the first place. Then there's the engine mounts which are about $500. Then there's the transmission. Not a whole lot of used engines/transmissions out there of the K series variety. A K20 engine and transmission weighs like 60lbs more than the B18B1 and transmission.

B18B1=303lbs
K20A2=362lbs
H22A4=379lbs

^ that is if my sources are correct on the H22A4.

I could build a B20, but I really want my engine stamp to say B18B1. I'm currently looking for a B18B1 for cheap that is in decent condition, but it's not turning up too well.

Found a B18B1 block here in the Dallas area for $50. I think I'm picking it up on Friday. Not sure yet.